What to Do in Malapascua Philippines

One of my favourite places in the world is the Philippines. Smiling Filipinos, clear oceans, palm trees, and turtles. The chance to get away from city culture as I know it. A five-hour bus ride from Cebu city could not deter me from visiting one of the most idyllic islands in the Philippines. So granted seven days’ freedom from work, I grabbed my backpack, bikini, and camera, and headed for the home of the thresher sharks, Malapascua.

THRESHER SHARK DIVES

Wandering Bounty Beach, I noticed that beach front businesses were either dive resorts, hotels with affiliated dive resorts, or restaurants. There were many dive resorts behind the beach strip too, including the Shark’s Tail Dive Resort where I had booked to stay two nights.

Most tourists visit Malapascua specifically to dive with the thresher sharks. Over five days, I encountered many divers, and learned quite a bit about diving.

On the boat headed to Malapascua, I met German law student, Franziska. Us two solo travelers ended up hanging out together often, and she let me look through her dive book which listed all her dive locations. I was fascinated to see stamps, activities listed, and depths recorded.

Francisca later explained that her thresher shark adventure tour began at 5am, and that she visited the Monad Shoal location. Diving depths were approximately 30m, and while waiting about 20 minutes, she came within 3 meters of three different thresher sharks. That’s pretty impressive.

DEVOCEAN DIVERS

Three days into my stay, I had the opportunity to meet Marcus Benders, owner of DevOcean Divers. Marcus operates DevOcean from the Hippocampus Beach Resort, and combines diving packages for Hippocampus guests.

Marcus explained to me that thresher sharks live in the dark depths of the ocean and feed there, however, they approach the surface of the ocean very early in the morning so that small marine life can clean debris attached to their bodies. Since thresher sharks have large, light-sensitive eyes, they spend little time at shallow depths where divers can actually view them. Marcus and team take divers down in the early morning to have the best chance at getting a glimpse of these majestic beasts. Marcus was a wealth of knowledge on the topic, and his helpful team tailor diving packages to suit client needs. I was quite happy to observe the happy crews returning from afternoon dives from the comfort of the Hippocampus beach area with a whiskey sour in my hand.

Prices were competitive with other businesses around the island, and vary depending on high or low season. Contact Marcus and team by phone: (+63.) 917.322.5161, and website.

 

FUN & SUN

I briefly stopped by Fun & Sun, located at the far easterly end of Bounty Beach. They seemed to have a steady stream of largely Chinese divers. Their low season prices begin at 1,400 PHP ($30) for a trip to Bantigue, and end at 3,600 PHP ($70+) plus island entrance fee for visits to Kalangaman Island and Dona Marilyn. Options included dives in the Malapascua waters, as well as nearby Gato Island and islands further away like Kalangaman. Night dives and tunnel dives were available too. Contact the crew for bookings by phone: (+63) 917.623.5520, and website.

 

The SHARK’S TAIL DIVE RESORT

I stayed two nights at the Shark’s Tail Dive Resort, where dives were managed by Paul Cook. I talked to Paul a few times both at the resort, and elsewhere as the community on the island is really small. He was an incredibly friendly and happy person. For diving excursions, contact Paul via Facebook.

 

FOOD AND DRINK

I developed several favourite spots where I liked to eat. Initially, I visited Ging Ging’s restaurant, located behind the Little Mermaid Dive Resort. The food was very good, and well-priced (approximately 100-300 PHP) for breakfast through to dinner, depending on what you ordered. The curry dish was superb, and the sizzling dishes smelled awesome.

Ging Ging’s is run by a local family. Unfortunately, the restaurant owners don’t seem to give food to the neighbouring cats, which patrol the tables looking like walking skeletons. Signage around the restaurant asks diners not to feed the animals. After a couple of visits there, I decided not to return because I felt a frustrated that the owners, unlike other locals, didn’t seem to give any food to the animals. Before I left Malapascua, I visited Ging Ging’s, and asked the family to pity the cats and feed them scraps of food. I said that next time I visit, I will check in with them, to see if they have decided to feed the poor creatures.

I stayed in a private room at Guanna’s Place for several days, and while there, ate breakfast in their restaurant a couple of times. The food was good, and the fresh juices were great.

Just outside of Guanna’s and Starlight Resort is the market. There, Guanna’s father manages a street-side restaurant. I visited this very convenient location for an evening BBQ meal, and added veggies purchased at the market itself to the grill beside my chosen cuts of meat. Franziska and I also enjoyed lunches and cocktail specials here, and I breakfasted here at least twice. They offer American breakfasts for around 120 PHP, as well as noodle stir frys and fresh coconut.

My favourite place for happy hour cocktails and martinis (2 for 1) and sunset dinners was definitely the Hippocampus restaurant located on Bounty Beach. Dinner prices, began at 150 PHP, and went up to around 400 PHP per person. I enjoyed an eggplant dish dinner, and on another occasion, a Greek pizza.

Beside Hippocampus is the Ocean View Resort which hosted a wedding during my stay. The beach-front seating has a variety of seating options including cushions and large semi private reclining sofas. The seating options made Ocean View an awesome spot for day or evening drinks, and the fold-able beach beds were great to sunbath and receive massages.

After observing Franziska get a massage by Rosalita (or Rosalina), I booked one with her too. Rosalita really knows her stuff. I worked in a spa years ago, and know massage basics myself. Rosalita pulled out some deep tissue therapist moves. I highly recommend her.

I visited a local rustic bar, The Other Place, with Franziska, local talented singer Nico, and a few of the local Filipino fellas. It has a billiards table, serves beer and cocktails, and plays popular tunes on a central dance area complete with a little disco ball. This location seemed to be a local hang out for the Filipino fellas who work in the tourism industry, and several tourists like myself tend to get roped in to the late nights there.

 

NORTH BEACH AND THE LIGHT HOUSE

I enjoyed two adventures to North Beach. I visited North Beach the first time with Franziska, local Filipino Ivan, and his friend who we nicknamed Jeff. The fellas only took about twenty minutes to drive us up island by motorbike. Once there, we frolicked in the crystal clear waters before heading over a hill which led to a gorgeous, more secluded, cove. I didn’t bring a snorkeling mask, but I could see very clearly through the water to the bottom. Several dive instructors further out were teaching their students.

Before sunset, we headed to the path leading up to the lighthouse. Franziska wanted to watch the sunset from there. The path was narrow and steep, and filled with overgrown bushes. After a seven-minute hike, we reached the top. The horizon was beautiful, and made the trek worthwhile. We headed back down before the sun set completely. I remembered to photograph the lighthouse itself at the very last minute before turning to leave. And I was definitely grateful to have the fellas there to help me hike back down.

On my second visit to North Beach, I walked, which took about half an hour. There were two businesses set up on the beach. One was a café, Avila’s Horizon, which served coffee and juice, and the other was Crabby Bill’s, a business set up by a fella from Miami. He had a few tables and chairs set up on the beach, and served San Miguel, fresh coconuts, and food options which he prepared in a nearby building. It really was quite wonderful to see only two businesses operating at this gorgeous location.

I stopped to enjoy a coconut, and there met Richard Gulfan. I learned that he had lived in England for several years. He invited me to check out his boat project, and join him later at a local birthday party. Meanwhile, another local invited me to join an island hopping tour which would begin shortly. He had space for another passenger, and if I wished to join, the tour included four stops around Malapascua island, including snorkeling at a damaged coral reef (due to hurricane Yolanda) and also snorkeling at a Japanese ship wreck. My fee would be only 400 PHP. The offer was very tempting, but I remained at North beach, and there met new Filipino friend, Robert.

I had been introduced to Robert via his cousin Adam the evening prior. I had met Adam days earlier at the Hippocampus resort. When Robert arrived at North Beach, we headed over to the cove beyond the hill. En-route, we visited Richard and his team working on his boat. It was fascinating to see a boat being gutted and fixed up, and learn about Richard’s plans for creating a party boat.

We agreed to meet Richard later that evening at a party. Former Miss Universe and actress, Pilar Pilapil was hosting a local BBQ for her husband’s birthday. Before then, Robert and I continued to the North Beach cove, and swam there while observing the divers nearby.

I joked that I’d teach Robert, native to Malapascua, how to swim (I’m am a poor swimmer). The water was warm on my skin, and I got a beautiful tan that evening. Nearby, a tourist tested out his drone. Robert and I captured some stunning images as the sun began to go down, and then we headed to meet Richard at Pilar’s BBQ party.

Would I visit Malapascua again? Yes. Whether I ever intend to dive is beside the point. I had a wonderful, restful, yet fun adventure , and plan to return in 2019.

Thank you for taking the time to read this article.

What other activities have you enjoyed on Malapascua that I haven’t mentioned here? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

Natasha Banky is author of Keto Brunches and Attract and Retain a Fulfilling Relationship.

 

 

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See more articles by Natasha:

• Malapascua Travel & Budget Guide 2018
• Bohol: Tour The Chocolate Hills
• Street Food in Moalboal and Cebu City
• 7 days in Panglao, Bohol

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