What do you do when you’ve seen all the major tourist sites in Rome? The plan had been to revisit Florence, but there was still much I hadn’t experienced in Italy’s capital. This was my forth visit, and I wanted to do the things that Romans have time for, but ultimately, I ended up doing other touristy things that I simply hadn’t explored yet. And thus begun four unforgettable days in civitas romana.
BATHS OF CARACALLA
One of the primary reasons that Rome attracts so much tourism is the historical preserved structures from the ancient Roman empire. In 2012, I was part of an archaeological team that excavated a Roman bath complex near Aqaba, Jordan. As a result, I developed an interest in ancient heat and water systems, so first on my Rome agenda was a visit to the Baths of Caracalla (Terme di Caracalla) located near the Circus Maximus in southern Rome.
Initially, I had planned to visit on a Monday, but the baths are closed on Mondays. In the end, I visited on a boiling-hot Thursday, and was grateful for bringing extra water, sun block, and a sun hat. I accidently wandered into a neighbouring park for joggers before eventually finding the correct Termae entrance.
Just beyond the entrance and gift shop sits the large structure that remains of the baths. En route, I learned from signage that the Termae were one of the seven wonders of ancient Rome. The water was brought in by an aqueduct, and that emperor Caracalla actually died before the bath complex was completed.
Only the back portion to the complex is standing. The walls are tall and imposing. There are beautiful mosaic floors on the ground, and I had to walk over mini bridges to admire the floors. I dropped my camera lens cap onto the mosaic floor below, and thankfully, a nearby attendant retrieved it for me. Specialists were doing restoration on the mosaic floors which was interesting to watch.
I came across a brilliant feature. My former professor had mentioned that Romans played games in the bath houses, and that historians found evidence for the games scratched into bathhouse tablets. While at the termae, I discovered a sign drawing attention to one such game etched into a slab of marble! It was thrilling to see the game with my own eyes.
The termae complex and grounds is fairly small by comparison to other historical ruins, and at a slow pace, it took me approximately two hours to wander through.
BOCCA DELLA VERITA
Bocca della Verita (The Mouth of Truth) is a fun little adventure if you happen to be in the neighbourhood. I learned about its existence by watching the classic movie, Roman Holiday. Audrey Hepburn’s character visits to slip her hand in the mouth of the mask figure. The mask is supposed to chomp down on whoever is a liar.
As I approached this famous marble disk, I discovered that it was contained within the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin church. There was a line up to take photos with the mask so I waited about thirty minutes to have my photo taken with this Roman icon. It looked like a fun attraction for parents with kids. The Italian guard who managed the lineup kindly offered to take my photo as I was traveling alone. Afterwards, I meandered through the Santa Maria church, and stopped at the gift shop to pick up souvenirs.
Bocca della Verita is located about a 15 minutes’ walk from the Circus Maximus.
TRASTEVERE
In my previous article, I mention my adventures to Centro Storico. This picturesque district is located close to the Tevere (Tiber River) where restaurants and boutiques line narrow old streets. But beyond the Tiber and running parallel to Centro Storico sits a beautiful collection of old alleys, plazas and shops. Trastevere, meaning, ‘across the Tiber’ has to be one of my favourite neighberhoods in Rome.
Movies, including Spectre, and To Rome with Love, were recorded here. And it’s easy to see why. Although much of Rome features potted plants dripping from window panes, the rich green leaves, terracotta walls, and splashes of petals are abundant in Trastevere during summer. I wanted to take out a video camera and shoot everything.
Cafes, gelaterias, and terraced restaurants were broken up by the occasional shoe shop, and of course, churches. While in Trastevere, I stopped to enjoy a pizza al fungi at a busy restaurant filled with locals and tourists. I sat on the patio with other foreigners, while the locals preferred to dine inside and enjoy the air con.
During the afternoon, I visited the Basilica di Santa Maria, mostly to escape the July heat. I picked up some neat postcards featuring religious icons at the gift shop. After cooling off, I walked and photographed, with the intention of getting myself lost in the alleyways. I discovered a cute stationary shop (Officina della Carta, Via Benedetta, 26-6), and could not bring myself to leave until I picked up some pretty envelopes with matching paper that I really didn’t need.
Tired from the walking in the afternoon sun, I sat on a stepped fountain near Piazza Trilussa, and from there, watched the comings and goings of people walking along the Tiber by Ponte Sisto. Eventually, I headed back the way I came and stopped for a creamy gelato. There, I and chatted with a honeymooning Spanish couple for at least an hour.
But on my way back to cross the Tiber, I wandered past the dangerously tempting Carlo Cecchini’s shoe store. There, like a hypnotized fashionista, I picked out a pair of pretty, pink leather sandals, before returning to my neighbourhood by Termini station.
My afternoon was memorable, and I highly recommend visiting Trastevere on your next trip to Rome.
WALK ALONG THE TIBER
Leaving Trastevere, I observed how beautiful the walk alongside the Tiber was. But exhausted from my afternoon adventures, I decided to return to the Tiber the following day. I tend to enjoy walking along rivers. I often walk along the Cheongyecheon stream in my current hometown of Seoul, South Korea. I also love walking along the Kamo river in Kyoto, Japan whenever I visit. And I even got the change to walk alongside the Rio de Nervion that runs through Bilbao, Spain this summer!
On my last day in Rome, I wandered through the shopping districts by the Spanish Steps, stopped at a restaurant near the Trevi fountain for lunch, and enjoyed a cappuccino at a local cafe in the afternoon.
I finally approached the Tiber toward evening, and wandered down the nearest steps to the level of the Tiber. The sun was beginning to fade, and I could see restaurants on the trastevere bank which overlooked the river. There were tourist attraction beside the river, including a replica of La Boca di la Verita, presumably for children. Most of all, it was quiet and peaceful. At ground level, lush trees grew on either side of the river, which seemed to shield the river from the busy city beyond.
On the banks of the Tiber, I saw a male model and his photographer, engrossed in a photoshoot. The model’s dramatic and elegant poses reminded me of the professional models you see in magazines like Vogue. After meandering and enjoying the solitude, I found some stairs, and headed up Ponte Umberto, beside the Castel Sant’ Angelo.
There was something magical about being in this part of Rome in the evening. I felt like I had been transported to another world. A world of fashion, and beauty, of ancient buildings, and millions of admiring tourists.
Rome remains one of my favourite cities in the world.
Thank you for taking the time to read this. It means a lot to me.
Have you been to Rome? Which activity would you recommend besides all the usual ones? Leave your response in the comment section below.
Tasha is author of Keto Brunches and Attract and Retain a Fulfilling Relationship.
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Lovely Tash
I love Rome & by the end of your article I felt I was back there again with the sun on my skin, good food, lovely people & gorgeous architecture!
Thanks for awakaing the Rome vibe that I experienced and loved
Awesome, Viv 🙂 It was a super awesome adventure. xxx